After years of double-digit sales growth, luxury retailers face a ‘reckoning’

After years of double-digit sales growth, luxury retailers face a ‘reckoning’
After years of double-digit sales growth, luxury retailers face a ‘reckoning’

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Just a few years ago, it seemed like sales for the luxury goods makers behind brands like Louis Vuitton to Tiffany’s and Gucci were soaring.

The annual revenue of LVMH, which owns two of those three companies, has soared to about 86.2 billion euros ($94 billion) in 2023, nearly eight times more than in 2000, thanks to trends that include newly wealthy Chinese consumers buying handbags and watches, and social media influencers preaching the virtues of building personal brands.

The company’s market value surpassed a record $500 billion in April 2023, making CEO Bernard Arnault the richest man in the world at the time. Sales and profits at Kering’s high-fashion brands, including Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta, and other major luxury players such as Hermès and Richemont, experienced similarly dizzying growth.

Then the escalator not only stalled but also began to slide downward amid growing geopolitical turmoil, slowing growth in China, US tariffs that raised retail prices for imported goods, and weakening confidence among aspirational consumers in their ability to generate future income, thanks to the rapid adoption of AI.

LVMH’s overall revenue fell almost 2% in 2024 and another 5% in 2025, and was down 6% in the first quarter of 2026. Its shares fell 28% from January to March, in its worst start to a year on record.

“You may have noticed that the world is in a pretty serious crisis in the Middle East,” Arnault told shareholders at the company’s annual meeting on Thursday. The outbreak of war in Iran halved expected growth for the first quarter, he added.

LVMH’s prospects now depend on how the crisis unfolds. If resolved relatively quickly, businesses can resume their “normal course,” he said, and “we would expect to see a return to growth in our various activities in the second half of the year.”

Meanwhile, Kering’s annual revenue has declined more than 25% since peaking in 2022, and Gucci in particular is struggling. Kering’s share price has almost halved since the beginning of 2022.

“Luxury retail is in crisis; it’s not a slowdown, it’s not a pause, it’s a crisis,” says Achim Berg, founder and CEO of industry consultancy FashionSIGHTS.

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While slowing economies and high-tech innovations are beyond the control of luxury companies, Berg notes that some wounds have been self-inflicted, in particular the decision of many of increase prices significantly as demand weakened, counting on its most loyal and wealthy customers to bail them out and maintain sales and margins.

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